I believe I found a video that showed how to clean the blade of the katana, and for that, how to disassemble the katana what I found, was that the habaki is what keeps the seppa and guard from slipping to the blade side When I made this sword, I was trying to get it the best possibly similar to a real katana (that it still could be separated into pieces) Tsuka (with the cord and other decorations)įuchi (collaring the blade end of the tsuka) The parts here shown (and their order in the sword's hilt) I don't know if it has a specific use, but at least for me, it is what keeps the scabbard from slipping open (just tight enough) The habaki is like a holder, the last part of the hilt and the first part of the blade. a little wood (or bone, I believe, in a proper katana) that is what prevents the blade from slipping out from the hilt The hilt, here I cut out of the two sheets of thicker basswood, made a canal (the canal being half carved on each side of each sheet) that fit the hilt part of the 'blade' and pasted it together The fuchi is on the oposite side of the hilt, where the hilt is next to the guard, and it also wraps its end like a seal of sorts, it is used as protection as the ending part of the hilt, and also to keep the tsukamaki (the cord) knotted It is entirely up to you if you want to recreate all of them and draw over your wood sheet the line you'll follow to cutĪ good width for the blade is 3 cm, so make it that the blade has 3 cm of width through out the entire length of the blade, later on you can make the point a bit less wide Use a tube or something that can bend softly to create the curve of your katana (cause katanas do have curves). Now that you left a part for the (inside of the guard). Where you're putting your hand should actually correspond to where the guard is, otherwise, you'll end up with a blade far too long for you (and you either coupe with it, or cut it a bit) Remember what I said that the place where you put your hand is not the true length of the blade, well, that's because of this So, you go to the first sheet with the measure of the blade I put an optional 2 mm extra because, for my first sword, I was really two scared of the sword's stability with the basswood that I made it a bit thicker, just as a precaution turns out it's also fine with 5mm, just, remember they're meant to look cool, not to hit things (neither the 7mm nor 5mm one). Then go to your first wood sheet, the slimmest of the group, this one will be the swords bladeĪ good size for this one is 5 mm / 0.5 cm. important point here, the place you have your hand in is not the true length of the 'blade' So, use some replacement for the sword (a broomstick or something) to check the length the sword can have and you can still unsheathe I'm *sigh* a rather small person, thus, having a normal sized sword would not be beneficial for me (what purpose is a sword, meant to be unsheathed that you can't unsheathe due to its size, after all) Unless you really want it to be exactly the size of a proper sword. This is important, actually, pretty important.
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